Tiny Little Saigon in New York

  

There are “Little Saigons” in cities throughout the world. But in New York City, the Vietnamese area exceeds the diminutive connotation. In Manhattan’s sprawling Chinatown, “Little Saigon” is truly little. In fact, it’s tiny. However, I’ve found all my culinary needs for preparing Vietnamese food in a handful of shops near the Grand Street subway station. Pop your head up from the station and you’re looking at the New York’s bevy of Vietnamese shops. It’s an L-shaped teeny area that spans Grand Street up to Bowery and southward down to Hester.  There's produce for sale on the street and people milling about looking for groceries and sundries. The shops are small and packed, kind of like what you'd find in Vietnam itself!

Along Grand, I’ve found a butcher, seafood vendor, and a Vietnamese market that proudly announces its Vietnamese affiliation as a “Sieu Thi Viet Nam” – Vietnamese market. You’ll find fresh herbs, noodles, fish sauce and even net-like wrappers called banh re, which are hard to find outside of Vietnam these days. That market keeps those wrappers very fresh; if you get them, use them as you would a Chinese spring roll/lumpia wrapper for fried cha gio (imperial rolls).

Walk toward Bowery and on the north corner of the street is a fresh rice noodle sheet vendor. The no-nonsense ladies will sell you bags of banh uot steamed rice sheets for stir-fries or for wrapping up grilled meats. You could even just eat them with nuoc cham dipping sauce. They’re exceptionally fresh and sold by the pound. Enjoy them the day you buy them.

Head southward on Bowery and just a couple of storefronts away from Grand is Tan Tin Hung supermarket (121 Bowery), arguably the best Vietnamese market in Manhattan. It’s not as cluttered as the one on Grand and the prices are about 15 cents lower. The shop owners are Vietnamese-Chinese and very sweet. Last week, while buying herbs for my class at the Institute of Culinary Education, the cashier told me that there’s only one (1!) true Vietnamese person at the market on Grand. “Next time, you come here first!” she said.

Walk further down Grand to the next block, which is Hester Street. Turn left and on the south side of the street is Cong Ly restaurant (124 Hester). Jennie M. turned me on to this little hole in the wall last week when she sent me her short list of Vietnamese restaurants in New York. I’m partial to the name Cong Ly as my family’s home was near the Cong Ly bridge in Saigon.

I went there last Saturday after teaching at the Whole Foods Bowery and stocking up on a few special ingredients for other classes. I wanted something familiar and ordered Cong Ly’s nem nuong, grilled meatballs with lettuce, herbs and rice paper. There were only about 10 tables in the place, and a group of chatty local men occupied a couple of them. It was the late afternoon coffee and lottery klatch. There’s no ambiance but I liked the homey feel of the place, which was simple like a modest spot you’d find in Vietnam. They were very thoughtful with the meatballs, offering two difference sauces (garlicky sweet bean sauce and nuoc cham), lots of lettuce, pickled carrot and shallot, sliced cucumber, and rice paper cut in half. All for $9. It wasn’t the best, but it was extremely satisfying and I appreciate the hospitality. Jennie likes Cong Ly’s pho noodle soup.

 

If you’re hankering for a hearty banh mi sandwich, you’ll have to cross the street and find your way to Saigon Bakery (138 Mott, between Grand and Hester). Look for a jewelry store and walk straight to the back. They’ll get your banh mi made in a flash (their pate in the case is pretty good) and you’ll be out the door for around $4.

The New York City population of Vietnamese people totals around 15,000 so that explains the tiny Little Saigon effect. Manhattan’s Viet presence in Chinatown isn’t like that in Elmhurst (Queens),which has more Viet people,  but it’s pretty darn good for people who want to shop for Vietnamese ingredients or grab a quick Vietnamese meal without leaving the island.

If you have tips on places to buy Vietnamese ingredients or where to find good Vietnamese food in New York, contribute your wealth of knowledge!

Comments

[r4]

Thanks for exploring this place, I love to have Vietnamese food and was on the search for such places.

[acai berry]

​Saigon Baker is really famous for its Bakery products. Wonderful snaps! I like the photographs. Well thanks for sharing such cherish moments here.

[Jessica Lee Binder]

My brother lives by Little Saigon and when I asked him to buy some spring rolls wrappers for me, he didnt' know what to buy so he bought all the different ones he saw....haha. Anyways, he bought me the net wrappers and I had no idea what to do with them so thanks for that...

The place on the corner of Bowery, you mentioned with the rice noodles, also sells wonderfully fresh tofu and fried tofu, all cheap.

[Patti Taylor]

Loved your class at ICE Andrea. You are a warm and generous person and teacher. I will be hoping to take more classes with you in the future, so I'll be checking out the Little Little Saigon in NYC the next time I visit from Baltimore.Thanks for everything.

[Andrea Nguyen]

Jessica, you're absolutely right about the fried tofu from the place on the corner. Love all the stuff they sell but wish that they'd smile a bit. Maybe it's standing out in the cold!

Patti -- I was nearly beside myself knowing that you drove up from Baltimore just to take the Vietnamese class at ICE. That was totally fun and I hope we get to cook together again in the future!

[andrewsco]

I actually remember going here when I was in NY a few years back - your right it is small, but I found it fascinating. That said, I'll be honest that I found it by accident!

Thanks
Andy - http://onceuponathyme.wordpress.com/

[Carol Ann Browne]

Andrea - Our Bellevue supper club cooked a table full of delicious dishes from "Vietnamese Kitchen" last night. Everything was a hit -- including the Cassava Coconut Cake! I can't wait to try more.

[Jennie M]

Oh! I forgot to tell you about Sau Voi on Lafayette for their sandwiches. They work out of a small assembly line in a cd shop. I bumped into a Vietnamese woman on the street and started chatting up with her one day, and she claims it's the best banh mi in NY. I like to take it home and put it in my toaster oven cause the bread is crispy airy and chewy that way.

[Andrea Nguyen]

Carol -- how AWESOME! Yowza, I am so flattered and honored! I would have loved to be at that dinner!

Jennie -- Great addition. Thanks.

[weight loss pills]

I have read the article based on the Little Saigon's.I like snaps and information very much as it contain informative knowledge.I agree with the point that I bumped into a Vietnamese woman on the street and started chatting up with her one day, and she claims it's the best banh mi in NY.I want to know more about the streets of the New york.

[FAN]

Does anyone know where to buy vn coffee?
Since I went to vn last year I am addicted to it.
I can't stand american coffee.
please reply to my email, 'cause i would not know how to come back to this page
thanks
fan

[Phi Tran]

thank you for this post! I went to Tan Tin Hung and was in awe at all the viet grocery stuffs I can buy.

[Acai Berry Optimum]

I've been one of your major follower this year... your brilliant and educative post really beats my imaginations each time drop by to read blogs... i say keep the good work