Use scissors to cut through the back shell and flesh of each shrimp. Use a paring knife to remove the vein underneath. Rinse and pat dry with paper towel. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the salt, sugar, and white pepper. Taste and tweak to your liking; aim for a slightly mild flavor since you’ll hit it with flavor again later. Add the cornstarch. Add the shrimp. Use your hands to coat well, getting some of the seasonings into the back side.

Heat a large wok or skillet over high heat. Add the shrimp, arranging them in a single layer. Cook, undisturbed for about 2 minutes, until the shrimp are partway cooked with some dark splotches on the underside. Flip and cook, undisturbed for 1 to 2 minutes more –until just cooked through. The flesh should be white. Transfer to a plate.

Lower the heat slightly, add the oil and garlic and chile. As soon as they’re aromatic, return the shrimp and any juices that may have leaked onto the plate. Sprinkle on more salt and white pepper, toss, flip and turn to coat. Add the cilantro and work the wok fast to coat the shrimp and wild the cilantro, about 15 seconds. Turn off the heat and transfer to a plate. Enjoy hot as finger food or with rice.