Cut the tofu into chunky dominoes, each about 1 inch wide and high and 2 inches long. Put the tofu pieces in a shallow bowl. Dissolve the 2 ¼ teaspoons of salt in the water, then pour over the tofu. The tofu should be just covered. Set aside for 15 minutes.

Transfer the tofu pieces to a non-terry dishtowel or double layer of paper towel placed atop a plate. Let drain for about 15 minutes.

Pour 1 ½ inches of oil in a wok, deep skillet, or saucepan. Heat the oil over high heat to between 360 and 370°F. Blot excess from the tofu one last time, then fry the tofu in batches of 5 to 6 pieces, sliding them into the oil, then gently stirring them with chopsticks or a skimmer to prevent them from sticking. If they stick, let them fry to when they’re light golden before nudging them apart; if that’s hard to do, remove the tofu from the oil, separate the pieces then quickly replace them in the oil to finish frying. They should be crisp and golden after about 2 minutes. Drain the tofu on paper towel. Return the oil to temperature before frying another batch.

As the tofu fries, mix together the pepper, sugar, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Set these ground seasonings near the stove, along with the garlic, chiles, and scallion.

When all of the tofu pieces have been deep fried, let them drain for a couple minutes. Meanwhile, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok. Reheat the pan over high heat. Then add the garlic, chile, and scallion. Cook for about 15 seconds, stirring, until fragrant.

Add the tofu, then sprinkle in the ground seasonings. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, to allow the tofu to absorb the flavors. Transfer the tofu, along with all the bits in the pan, to a plate. Serve immediately with rice.