Line a large plate with paper towels and place next to the stove. Pour oil to a depth of ¾ to 1 inch (2 to 2.5cm) into a wok or a Dutch oven and heat over medium heat to 325 to 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer. (If you don’t have a thermometer, stand a dry bamboo chopstick in the oil; if small bubbles immediately gather on the surface around the chopstick, the oil is ready.)

For each batch, drop in 1 big one or 3 to 5 small chips, keeping in mind that they will double in size. If you fry too many at a time, they will cook unevenly. Each will sink to the bottom, start to bubble, maybe curl, and then expand before rising to the top, where it will finish cooking. All of this happens in 4 to 5 seconds, so don’t turn away. Once the chips float to the top, let them fry for only a few seconds longer. Don’t let them brown or their delicate flavor will vanish. Using a skimmer, transfer the chips to the towel-lined plate to drain. This is fast-paced frying, so regulate the heat and adjust the size of your batches so that you are working at a comfortable speed. Eat at room temperature.