Cut the tofu into chunky dominos, each about 1 inch wide and high and 2 inches long. Sprinkle on a rounded ¼ teaspoon of the salt and gently toss to coat as best as possible. Put the tofu pieces on 2 layers of paper towel set on a plate. Let drain for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together ¼ plus ⅛ teaspoon of the salt with the pepper, Chinese five spice, and sugar. Taste and add extra salt, if needed to balance flavors. Put ½ teaspoon of the seasonings in a medium bowl, then add the cornstarch and rice flour; set aside.

Blot excess moisture from the tofu, then coat in 1 tablespoon of the oil. In 3 or 4 batches, lightly coat the tofu in the seasoned starch and flour mixture. Transfer to the air-fryer rack or basket and arrange as a single layer.

Preheat the air-fryer set to 375°F for 3 minutes. Then air-fry the tofu for 10 to 15 minutes, turning midway when hissing and fragrant, until lightly crispy and golden; the air-frying time depends on the tofu texture and air-fryer model.

When the tofu is done, let cool for 2 to 3 minutes to dry and finish crisping.

In a medium or large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the garlic, chile, and scallion. Cook for about 15 seconds, stirring, until fragrant.

Add the tofu, then sprinkle in the ground seasonings. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, to allow the tofu to absorb the flavors. Transfer the tofu, along with all the bits in the pan, to a plate. Serve immediately.