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Wed., July 5, 2006 copyright San Jose Mercury News

Vietnam's bite-size delight
Delicate bánh bèo -- sweet or savory -- are perfect finger food

By Carolyn Jung
Mercury News

Sometimes the very best things in life are only one or two bites.

Sushi, tortellini, picked-at-their-peak strawberries, fancy amuse bouches at four-star restaurants, and good ol' Reese's peanut butter cups -- all utterly satisfying in one glorious mouthful, yet teasingly leaving you craving just one more.

Bánh bèo are no exception. Like a Vietnamese version of blini, these tiny, dainty, steamed rice-flour pancakes are as adorable as can be. Resembling jiggly little white saucers, bánh bèo (pronounced ``baan beh-ao'') are generally topped with some colorful combination of chopped dried or fresh shrimp, scallion oil, fluffy yellow mung beans, crispy fried shallots, and a drizzle of fish sauce and rice wine vinegar. Slide one into your mouth and it's a soft, chewy, irresistible medley of tangy, salty, sweet and savory.

You can't eat just one. Even if you tried.

All over Vietnam, street vendors and restaurants make them to order, but this traditional morsel is most associated with Hue, the former imperial seat in the center of the country, where it is still regarded as a specialty.

In mid-19th century Hue, the emperor declared that every meal prepared for him had to consist of 50 dishes as befitting royalty, according to "World Food Vietnam'' (Lonely Planet) by Richard Sterling. Like a precursor to modern-day chef's tasting menus, many Hue foods became miniaturized so a guest could sample an array of dishes throughout the course of a meal.

In the South Bay, not many Vietnamese restaurants make these diminutive steamed pancakes, which, while not difficult to assemble, do require a fair number of steps.

If you can find them at a restaurant, they usually come about five or so to an order. Traditionally, the batter is poured into the bottom of individual rice bowls to steam. But nowadays, the pancakes also are made in smaller vessels such as soy sauce dishes for a more precious look. Restaurants usually do not unmold the pancakes before serving. So when a feast of five or more little dishes of pancakes is brought to the table all at once, you do indeed feel like a king.

Because they're so hard to find freshly made, I thought I'd try making them at home. Like a little girl's tea party gone grown-up and exotic, doll-like bánh bèo are a cute and unique treat to serve at a casual gathering of friends and family.

Because they can be smeared with a savory or sweet topping, they're ideal for an appetizer, light lunch, brunch or dessert. Or center the whole party on them by making both types of pancakes -- savory ones, man, pronounced ``manh,'' and sweet ones, ngot, pronounced ``n-gawt.'' Then add a light green salad, Japanese cucumber salad, Chinese chicken salad or Vietnamese green papaya salad, and some fresh fruit to round it all out.

Who better to teach me how to make bánh bèo than my good friend Andrea Nguyen, whose first cookbook, ``Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors,'' will be published in October by Ten Speed Press? So off I went to her house in Santa Cruz recently for my very own private lesson in bánh bèo making.

Nguyen likes to steam hers in little 2 1/2-inch-wide dipping saucers. She likes to unmold the pancakes and place them on a platter for serving, which means you don't need a huge stack of saucers for steaming, just eight or so, which will be washed and reused.

You can steam a batch in advance and leave them on the counter for up to eight hours, covered with plastic wrap so they don't dry out. When guests arrive, add the topping, and they're ready to be enjoyed. Invite guests to get in on the fun by helping steam and top the next batch. With a fresh-brewed cup of hot tea or a refreshing sake cocktail, it's finger food at its finest.

Under Nguyen's watchful eyes, I whisked the batter of rice flour, salt, canola oil, water and just a bit of cornstarch to give the pancakes enough heft so they can unmold easily.

As the batter rested, she showed me how to make the dipping sauce, scallion oil garnish and shrimp topping, all of which easily can be prepared before guests arrive. Although most bánh bèo feature dried shrimp, Nguyen instead cooks fresh shrimp using a technique that really concentrates their sweet, briny flavor.

Peeled, deveined shrimp are boiled in a saucepan with a little salt and just enough water to cover. They cook until the water evaporates. Then the shrimp are minced and sauteed in a pan with shallot, sugar, white pepper and fish sauce until the mixture becomes dry and deep orange in color. The result is a topping so intensely flavorful that I can't wait to try it simply sprinkled over steamed rice or plain Asian noodles or most anything else I can think of.

To cook the pancakes, Nguyen filled the bottom part of her steamer with water and brought it to a rolling boil over high heat. Nearby, she had the bowl of batter, a small ladle, a pair of tongs, a paring knife, and a serving plate at the ready.

The mark of a great bánh bèo, Nguyen says, is the indentation that forms in the center of each one that provides a well for the toppings to sit in. The secret to creating the dimple? Preheating the little dishes in the steamer before pouring the batter into them -- a step many restaurants skip -- which helps set the pancake immediately.

When the eight tiny dishes in the steamer were hot enough, Nguyen carefully poured about one tablespoon of batter into each one. On went the lid, and the pancakes steamed for about three minutes, until firm and shiny.

With tongs, she removed the little dishes from the steamer to cool on the counter. She dipped the tip of a paring knife into water, then ran it along the edge of the dish to pry each pancake out. One by one, they were put onto a serving platter. Then she rinsed the used dishes, wiped them dry, and repeated the process with the rest of the batter.

For the savory bánh bèo, Nguyen topped the pancakes with the shrimp, scallion oil, and a splash of the fish sauce mixture. Because I was curious about how sweet ones compared, she whipped up a dessert-like topping on the spot: buttery-tasting mung beans; rich, creamy coconut sauce; and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds.

Using chopsticks, we each maneuvered a pancake onto a Chinese soup spoon and ate it from the spoon. You also can use your fingers and fold up a pancake taco-style.

We tried a savory and a sweet. Then another and another.

And we smiled mischievously, knowing full well it's impossible to eat just one.

Rice pancakes with shrimp and scallion oil (bánh bèo man)

Makes 32 pancakes, serves 4 as a starter

For scallion oil:
2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced ( 1/2 cup)
2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

For batter:
1 cup rice flour, any Thai brand from an Asian market (Note: Do not use glutinous rice flour)
3 tablespoons cornstarch
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1 3/4 cups water

For shrimp topping:
1/3 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 pinches of salt
1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon finely minced shallot
Pinch of sugar
2 pinches of white pepper
1/2 teaspoon fish sauce

For sauce:
2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 Thai or serrano chile, thinly sliced (optional)

To make scallion oil: Have scallions ready in a small bowl so they may be quickly added to the oil. In small saucepan, heat oil over medium heat until hot. To test, drop in a scallion slice; it should sizzle on contact. Add scallions and stir immediately to expose them quickly to the oil. When scallions have collapsed and are soft, after about 30 seconds, remove from heat. Transfer scallions and oil to a small heat-proof bowl and let cool completely.

The garnish will keep for several hours at room temperature. Or, cover and refrigerate for up to 7 days, then bring to room temperature before using. Makes about 1/4 cup.

To make batter: In a bowl, stir together rice flour, cornstarch and salt. Make a well in the center, pour oil and water into the well, and whisk together to produce a thin, smooth batter. You should have about 2 cups batter. Let batter rest for 30 minutes.

To make topping: In small saucepan, combine shrimp and salt with water just to cover and bring to boil over medium heat. Cook about 8 minutes, or until all water has evaporated. (This intensifies flavor of shrimp.) Transfer shrimp to small bowl and set aside to cool for 10 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a mini food processor and process to a minced, fluffy texture. Or mince by hand using a knife. Return shrimp to bowl.

In small non-stick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add shallot and saute about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add shrimp and stir to combine. Sprinkle in sugar, pepper and fish sauce. Continue to cook, stirring, 3 to 4 minutes to dry shrimp, lowering heat when bits of shrimp pop. Shrimp are done when they look crumbly and are brilliant orange. Transfer to bowl and set aside until ready to use. (Shrimp may be prepared up 3 days in advance, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.)

To make sauce: In a small bowl, combine sugar, vinegar, water and fish sauce and stir to dissolve sugar. Taste and make any adjustments to create a light, slightly sweet sauce. Add chile and set aside until serving time.

To cook pancakes: Fill bottom section of steamer halfway with water and place steamer tray on top. Bring water to rolling boil over high heat. Nearby have ready the batter, a ladle, a small knife or metal spatula and serving plates for holding the pancakes.

Make pancakes in batches. Have ready about 8 small dishes, each about 2 1/2 inches wide and at least 1/2 inch deep. Put dishes into steamer tray, placing them away from the edge where condensation collects. So that batter will set quickly, cover steamer and let dishes preheat for 2 minutes. Remove lid carefully. Do not let condensation drip into the dishes. Ladle batter to a depth of 1/4 inch into each dish (about 1 tablespoon batter.) Replace lid and steam 3 minutes, or until pancakes are shiny and firm and have a shallow indentation in center. Reduce heat to low and wait for steam to subside before lifting lid, and then lift it away from you carefully to avoid condensation dripping onto the pancakes. Use metal tongs to transfer dishes to counter. Let pancakes cool 2 minutes. They will firm up slightly.

To unmold: Dip tip of knife (or spatula) in water and run it along edge of a pancake to loosen it. Use your fingers to gently pry pancake from dish, and then place it on a serving plate. Repeat until you have unmolded all the pancakes. The finished pancakes resemble tiny white plates.

Return steamer to a boil over high heat. Give the dishes a quick rinse and wipe before returning them to the steamer tray for another batch. Repeat until all batter is used. (Cooled pancakes may be covered with plastic wrap and kept at room temperature up to 8 hours.)

To serve: Fill indentation of each pancake with a generous 1/2 teaspoon of shrimp topping and dot with a generous 1/4 teaspoon of scallion oil garnish. Serve with the sauce. The best strategy for eating the pancakes is to use chopsticks to scoot one onto a soup spoon and then drizzle on some sauce.

From Andrea Nguyen of Santa Cruz, whose first cookbook, ``Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors,'' will be published in October by Ten Speed Press

Rice pancakes with sweet mung bean and coconut sauce (bánh bèo ngot)

Makes 32, Serves 4

For sauce:
1 cup canned coconut milk
2 pinches salt
1 tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons water
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons water

For topping:
1/3 cup dried yellow hulled and split mung beans
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt

For batter:
1 cup rice flour, any Thai brand (Note: Do not use glutinous rice flour)
3 tablespoons cornstarch
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
1 3/4 cups water

For serving:
1 1/2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

To make sauce: In a small saucepan, whisk together coconut milk, salt, sugar and water. Place over medium heat and bring to a near simmer, lowering heat if coconut milk spews or pops. Give cornstarch mixture a good stir and add to sauce, mixing well. Cook, stirring, about 30 seconds, or until sauce thickens, then remove from heat.

Let sauce cool, uncovered, to concentrate flavors. (Sauce may be prepared up to 3 days in advance. Store, tightly covered, in refrigerator. Return to room temperature before using.)

To make topping: Place mung beans in bowl and add water to cover by 1 inch. Let soak 2 to 6 hours (or overnight).

Drain beans and place in steamer tray, spreading out evenly. Fill steamer bottom halfway with water and bring to rolling boil over high heat. Place tray in steamer, cover, and steam about 8 minutes, or until beans are tender. Remove tray from steamer and set aside until beans cool completely. (Or, transfer beans to a bowl to cool.)

Process cooled beans in a mini food processor to a fluffy consistency. It should look like fine cornmeal but hold together when a small bit is pinched between your fingers. (The beans may be steamed and ground up to 3 days in advance. Store in a plastic container and refrigerate. Return to room temperature before using.)

Combine ground mung beans, sugar and salt in saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly and scraping bottom, for about 1 minute, or until mixture is lumpy and resembles mashed potatoes. Transfer to bowl, set aside to cool, then cover and keep at room temperature until ready to use.

To make batter: In bowl, stir together rice flour, cornstarch and salt. Make a well in the center, pour oil and water into well, and whisk together all ingredients to produce a thin, smooth batter. You should have about 2 cups batter. Let batter rest 30 minutes.

Fill bottom section of steamer halfway with water and place steamer tray on top. Bring water to a rolling boil over high heat. Nearby have ready the batter, a ladle, a small knife or metal spatula, and serving plates for holding the pancakes.

To cook pancakes: Make pancakes in batches. Have ready about 8 small dishes, each about 2 1/2 inches wide and at least 1/2 inch deep. Put dishes into steamer tray, placing them away from the edge where condensation collects. So that batter will set quickly, cover steamer and let dishes preheat for 2 minutes. Remove lid carefully. Do not let condensation drip into the dishes. Ladle batter to a depth of 1/4 inch into each dish (about 1 tablespoon batter.) Replace lid and steam 3 minutes, or until pancakes are shiny and firm and have a shallow indentation in center. Reduce heat to low and wait for steam to subside before lifting lid, and then lift it away from you carefully to avoid condensation dripping onto pancakes. Use metal tongs to transfer dishes to counter. Let pancakes cool 2 minutes. They will firm up slightly.

To unmold, dip tip of knife (or spatula) in water and run it along the edge of a pancake to loosen it. Use your fingers to gently pry pancake from dish, and then place it on a serving plate. Repeat until you have unmolded all pancakes. The finished pancakes resemble tiny white plates.

Return steamer to a boil over high heat. Give the dishes a quick rinse and wipe before returning them to steamer tray for another batch. Repeat until all batter is used. (Cooled pancakes may be covered with plastic wrap and kept at room temperature up to 8 hours.)

To serve: Fill indentation of each pancake with about 1 teaspoon mung bean topping. Drizzle on a generous 1 1/2 teaspoons of coconut sauce and finish with a light sprinkling of sesame seeds. (Or, serve sauce on the side, sprinkling the sesame seeds on top as a garnish. Let diners finish the pancakes with sauce.) To eat, use a soup spoon and fork, or chopsticks and a soup spoon.

From Andrea Nguyen of Santa Cruz, whose first cookbook, ``Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors,'' will be published in October by Ten Speed Press