The Wall Street Journal ran an interesting story last Saturday on using white (shiro) miso as a secret ingredient in desserts. The piece was akin to the story I wrote for them on fish sauce as a stealth component in food. This time, Elizabeth Gunnison Dunn referenced Kyotofu, a New York based maker of Japanese-inflected sweets that informed and inspired her to employ miso in unconventional ways. The results were desserts with a wonderful savory-sweet edge, she said.
There was a fudgy miso brownie recipe that looked terrific, and I wondered what it would be like if I substituted tofu for the bit of flour in the recipe. My logic in doing so is that in Japan, there are bakeries as well as restaurants that use tofu and soy in nearly every dish. Sometimes you’d know it, other times not. That kind of seemless but very smart swapping of ingredients was based on knowing the possibilities of the little soybean.
Since the miso brownie idea was Japanese in origin, I thought what the heck, I’d give it a try. If it succeeded then it would be like using soybeans two ways, family members reunited in a brownie.