A bowl of pho noodle soup comforts and delights, but it may also be controversial. As I wrote in “The History of Pho” feature in Lucky Peach magazine, pho has had an unusually rich history of being a means of protest and symbol of self-determination. That aspect of the pho experience has largely been confined to Vietnamese soil. This week, the pho broth boiled over at Bon Appetit magazine into a controversy that reflected many issues regarding food, race/ethnicity, and media.
Bon Appetit recently launched its “Best New Restaurants” issue, and when I read through it, I noted this: